|Dawn asks: |
Hi, Iím a hairdresser but Iím in need of some advice. My friend has been having a semi permanent colour on for years. Her natural colour is medium/auburn and is fairly long but quite fine. Sheís been having quite a dark brown on (itís almost black) and I always put the semi on all over when I do it, so I know thereís a lot of build up on there. Anyway, she wants to go a bit lighter and have an all over base colour of a warm chocolate brown , then have a few highlights of caramel running through it. I told her it would need a colour stripper on it first. I did a couple of test strands and the colour stripper (not a bleach based one) stripped the colour out lovely, but then when I put the chocolate colour on it went black. So I went back to the wholesalers and bought a colour that was 3 shades lighter, (majirel mocha blonde 7.8) and it still went black!! I really donít want to bleach it all over to strip it, any suggestions? TIA
|Answered By: |
Hi Dawn, You need to leave the colour stripper for a week or two before applying the tone you want or else it will go black. Your friend, could have her hair stripped, have the caramel lights and control the unwanted warmth with violet conditioner or use chocolate brown conditioner, combing through and leaving for 5 minutes before rinsing? Good luck
|Chloe asks: |
My hair is about 22 inches long, super thick and can get quite frizzy. Itís also naturally wavy. I have never dyed my hair, and I donít plan to - itís a light brown colour with a few natural highlights. Iíve always wanted curly hair - it used to be much curlier when I was younger - so what can I do to reduce frizz and boost my natural waves without using heated appliances? My hair doesnít respond to a curling iron at all.
|Answered By: |
Linton and Mac
Itís great that you want to embrace your natural hair type Ė we always encourage our clients to work with what they have, rather than work against it, and giving your natural waves a boost to make them curlier is a great idea; curls are very on-trend right now and while they can be tricky to manage, with the right products and techniques, it is totally doable.
First, consider visiting your hairdresser for a cut that will boost your hairís bounce factor. Your hair is currently very long and as it is also very thick, I imagine that your current style means your hair is sitting quite heavy, which will stop your curls from forming as well. Ask your stylist to feather the ends of your hair, either with scissors or a razor. This is a great trick for helping to increase the hairís ability to curl: it works a little like scraping the end of a ribbon to curl it. Layers are a good way to add movement and body to curls, and positioned right and at the right length, they should help to reduce the weight of your thick hair; heavy hair that is all one length can stop the curls from forming properly. Layers will also add definition to your waves, helping them to appear curlier.
Next, take a look at the products you are using. You need to be using products that are designed to smooth, nourish the cuticle, make your thick hair feel softer and more manageable and boost your natural curl. I would start by investing in a microfibre towel to keep your curls soft and healthy. Microfibre towels help to minimise frizz and reduce breakage while quickly absorbing the water from your hair, allowing it to dry quicker. When towel drying your hair, use a ípress and twistí method, to preserve curls and add body: take your towel and press and twist the hair rather than roughly rubbing it back and forth, which can push the hair cuticles upwards and create frizz.
I would switch to a sulphate-free shampoo and a keratin-based conditioner, as well as a deep conditioning mask for fortnightly use. Injecting moisture in to your hair should be a priority in order to encourage healthy manageable curls with minimum frizz, and to ensure your thick hair doesnít turn coarse and wiry. A nourishing curl creme, as opposed to an oil or serum, will help to smooth the hair cuticle to reduce frizz, when applied to damp hair, but without straightening or weighing down the hair and pulling out the natural wave, which can sometimes happen when using an oil. Finally, a curl-boosting mousse will help you to boost the curl factor in your hair, and will add a little hold and body to the curls. Alternatively, you could use a sea salt spray to add texture and hold, and to encourage the curl in your natural waves. The effect of this would be slightly more tousled and textured than if you used a mousse, and with slightly less hold, so it depends on the finish you are looking to achieve. It might sound strange but I would avoid anti-frizz shampoos, conditioners and serums. These often contain ingredients that give weight to curls and drag them down. What you want to do is inject moisture to the hair, to help to define the curls and smooth frizz naturally, rather than by coating the cuticle in product.
Finally, it might be worth arranging a consultation for a keratin-based smoothing treatment to help you fight your hairís natural tendency to frizz.
|Maya asks: |
I once had my hair thinned out and was happy with the results, but now I want it thinner. If I get it thinned out again will my hair turn frizzy?
|Answered By: |
Having very thick hair thinned out Ė which is traditionally done by thinning out the lengths and ends with a razor or shears Ė is sometimes a great option for women who find their thick coarse hair very unmanageable, however, it isnít a decision to be taken lightly. Often the grass isnít always greener and trading in very thick hair for very fine hair can bring a whole new set of problems with it. For a start, the less volume in the hair, the harder it can be to rely on your natural texture, so adding any kind of wave or body to the hair can be tricky. Hair can end up looking fine, limp and lifeless and styling products that used to work on your hair can become too heavy, weighing the hair down.
The key is to seek out a professional who will help you achieve a balanced style and cut that retains enough weight and volume in the hair that it retains some natural texture and body, but without being so thick and unruly that it is tricky to style. Thinning shears are preferable over using a razor to thin the ends Ė this can leave the ends looking dry. However be aware that if your hair is naturally wavy, and texturizing shears are used, they can alter your hairís natural wave pattern, so you may notice your curls start to behave differently.
Your hair has now started to grow back in at the roots, which has resulted in your new roots being full of natural weight and thickness, while your thinned out ends remain thin. This has caused an imbalance between the ends and crown section, which is probably why you now wish to have the procedure carried out again. The problem is that thinning the hair can only take place through the ends Ė so when freshly grown thicker roots start to appear, there is an unavoidable contrast between the roots and ends. Instead of having your ends thinned again I would actually suggest opting for a blunter cut through the ends.
This will make the ends look thicker, however it should help to balance out the denser roots. Then ask your hairstylist to add internal layers to take away the heaviness and volume within the main body of the hair. This should give the appearance of lighter locks, but without contributing to the current contrast between the roots and ends that you are experiencing. It should also help to ensure that as your hair continues to grow out, you donít end up with even more of a discrepancy between the thickness in the ends and the body at the roots and should mean the effects of the cut last much longer.
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