|Jess asks: |
How do I get my naturally curly hair back after nearly ten years of straightening it every other day?
|Answered By: |
The good news is that the extent to which your hair curls is determined by genetics and the curl is formed within the individual hair follicles, so continuously subjecting your existing hair to heated straightening cannot technically reduce the amount of curl within the hair on a permanent basis. As new hair grows from the follicle, it should return to its naturally curly shape. If, however, you have noticed that the amount of curl in your existing hair has lessened due to repeated use of straightening irons, it is likely that the hair has become heat damaged, and so is behaving in a less manageable way. As you cut back on your use of straightening irons, your hair’s health should improve, but it’s a good idea to start incorporating some hair health-boosting habits into your routine, to restore manageability, encourage new hair growth and boost your hair’s integrity. Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week, and visit your hairdresser once every six weeks for a trim and a professional deep conditioning treatment. Kérastase’s In-Salon Rituals are ideal for improving your hair’s health over time, as they can be tailor-made to your hair’s needs each time. When you switch from straightening your curly hair to embracing your natural bounce, you need to start using different products and should embrace a different haircare regime. After years of straightening your hair and fighting your natural curl, you will need to learn how to encourage your natural curls, while at the same time fighting frizz. Products designed to boost body, reduce frizz, enhance curls and create shine in naturally curly hair should be at the top of your shopping list. I would start with a gentle shampoo, a deeply nourishing conditioner, a lightweight, but hard-working, serum and a body-boosting mousse, ideally from a range that is designed for curly hair. Also consider how frequently you wash your hair, as over-washing curly hair can strip away natural oils that are essential to maintaining curly hair’s shine and its ability to stay free from frizz. A co-washing product such as Kérastase Cleansing Conditioner Curl Ideal (Ł31.70) is something that I often recommend to my curly-haired clients. The way you style your hair will also need to change – I would recommend leaving your hair to dry naturally, to avoid any further heat damage. After washing, smooth a leave-in conditioning spray or serum through the mid-lengths and ends, and comb through. Add a little volume-boosting mousse through the roots and ends, while hair is still damp, but then avoid any further combing or brushing, which can cause the hair to frizz. Your cut and style will also determine the amount your hair curls: for example, hair with more layers cut into it has more of a tendency to curl than hair that is one-length, which sits heavier and can cause curls to drop. Speak to your hairdresser to work out the best cut for your hair, that will not only encourage your natural waves, but will also suit your face shape, your hair’s texture and thickness, your personality and the level of maintenance you’re able to commit to.
|Maia asks: |
Hi, I recently went into a salon for a spiral perm (looking for the traditional type of spiral perm NOT a bodywave, or beachwave type thing). My hair was set into foam bendy curlers and then the perming solution was tipped over my hair (As I was resting above a sink), this was left on for 20 minutes, then two other solutions were put on my hair. Once the processing was finished she took it out the curlers and brushed it vigerously with one of those detangling brushes and blow-dried it, it was looking really really straight at this point which had me worried, she then put mousse and some other products on it and curled it with a curling wand and backcombed sections... I thought this was really odd but the after effect was exactly what I wanted and went home pleased. I waited four days before washing it, I barely touched it, didn’t pull the curls and slept on a silk pillowcase, i didn’t put my hair up or so anything to it at all. Now I have washed it and my hair is slightly wavy, as if I had slept in a plait, certainly NOT the spiral perm I was after... is this normal?
|Answered By: |
Hello Maia, The bit that sounds odd is the need to use a curling wand after the perm! After the 20 minutes processing time of the first lotion was your hair rinsed for about 5 to 10 mins before the next lotion was applied? I suggest you try shampooing and conditioning your hair, applying mousse or a curling lotion, comb through with a wide tooth comb – leave for 30 minutes to start drying naturally whilst softly scrunching with your hands every now and then. If you don’t see any real curl formation, trying using a diffuser on your hairdryer – medium heat medium or slow speed with your head upside down. Let your hair sit in the diffuser until its dry, don’t touch or move it around, once dry all over if you don’t have curls I suggest you go to the salon and explain everything you have done. And that you are disappointed and would like it redone.
|Shia asks: |
I have African hair. I have done a Brazilian blowout treatment 3 weeks ago. A few days ago, after shampooing my hair, I applied Kérastase Nutritive Masque Magistral and left it on for about 10 minutes before rinsing it out. I towel dried my hair, and applied Kérastase Nutritive Creme Magistral as a leave-in product. Even before blow-drying my hair, I could feel my hands being quite sticky when I ran them through it. After blow-drying, the hair looked fairly shiny but not very bouncy. And while I was styling it (with a ceramic curling iron), I noticed white residue on my scalp.
What did I do wrong? What could explain the stickiness, lack of bounciness or the white residue? I realise all of these issues can be due to different things. Also, is it better to wait for a few days before washing my hair and go through the blow-dry/ironing/styling process all over again? Are there any risks in keeping it as it is for a few days, or because of these issues is it better if I wash it again as soon as possible?
|Answered By: |
Experiencing too much residue after using a deep conditioning mask usually means that you are using too much product, leaving it on for too long or not rinsing it out effectively. Whenever you use a deep conditioning mask, apply just a 10p sized amount and leave on for five minutes – building up to longer if necessary – before rinsing properly. Kérastase Nutritive Masque Magistral is a restorative hair mask that is very nourishing for severely dried-out, thick hair, so it sounds ideal for your natural hair type and texture, however it could be that while this product is perfect for your natural un-treated hair, it is no longer suitable for your hair after a Brazilian Blow-Dry. A Braziian Blow-Dry is a treatment that penetrates the hair with Keratin, so moisture is sealed into the hair cuticle, leaving it more manageable, less frizzy and more resilient. The needs of your hair after a treatment change and the products you use should reflect this change to your hair’s behaviour. This could also be the reason Kérastase Nutritive Creme Magistral is leaving your hair lacking in bounce and volume – again, it is a product designed for severely dried-out hair, so it could be too heavy for your hair now, following your Brazilian Blow-Dry. As you regularly use a hairdryer and heated curling tongs, I would advise switching to a lighter leave-in product, that is designed to be used when blow-drying, to encourage volume and body, while providing nourishment, heat protection and shine. Kérastase L’Incroyable Blowdry Crčme is a heat styling cream designed to be used when blow-drying thick and unruly hair, so should be ideal for your hair type and your styling habits. Not only will it help to reduce blow-drying time – which will in turn protect your hair health – it will fight any frizz that grows back in, as the effects of your Brazilian treatment wear off, and will provide thermo-protection from your hairdryer use and protect the hair’s integrity, which can be compromised by regular use of a curling iron. Again, stick to the recommended amount for your hair length, and avoid using on your scalp or too close to your roots, to avoid leaving that residue you describe.
Following a Brazilian Blow-Dry, the hair must not be washed for four days. As your stylist will probably have advised, during this time you must also avoid tying your hair back or wearing it pushed behind your ears. After that, you should wash and style your hair as advised by your hairstylist, using a recommended shampoo and conditioner. There is absolutely no harm in then leaving your hair for a few days until your next wash – in fact, it is sometimes advisable: washing hair too often can strip the scalp of the natural oils that keep the hair and scalp healthy and that encourage healthy hair growth. Also, when you wash your hair more frequently, the effects of the Brazilian Blow-Dry treatment wear off faster, so to enjoy the results for longer, you should avoid washing your hair daily. When you do wash your hair, be sure to avoid shampoos that contain sulfates or sodium chloride and try to limit use of heated appliances to every other wash.
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